Thursday, September 10, 2009

THE HUNT: Hash browns in NYC Restaurant 1





Restaurant 1: Cafe Cluny
284 W. 12th Street (at W. 4th Street)
New York City.
Rating: 3
Description on the menu: "Hash browns"
Actual description: More like a potato cake: tiny potato nuggets clumped together into a large cake about an inch thick and pan-seared on each side, creating a crusty outside layer of slightly fried potato.  Inside, the potato stays mushy with bits of potato with slightly thicker consistency, but without noticeably varying texture.  The cake is then cut into slices, which is served along side their Herb Omelette or alone as a side. Tasty, but not hash browns. 

Rating Guide: From 1 (Worst)-5 (Best)

THE HUNT: Hash browns in NYC

                                                              image from www.my-chef.org


Hash browns: light and fluffy shavings of potato, lightly kissed by a frying pan so that the edges of each shaving turn golden brown and become delicately crisp as the lace of an antique doily, while keeping its moist texture and muted, but undeniably familiar, taste of home. 

I am on a hunt for hash browns.  Real HASH BROWNS. 

New York City is the city of "Breakfast Potatoes" or "Homefries." Neither come close to hash browns.  They are inferior.  Chunks of crumbling, dry potatoes seasoned with chili powder, paprika, sometimes rosemary, thyme and other herbs are tossed about a frying pan with lumps of green peppers, cut up onion, and occasionally diced tomatoes. Breakfast potatoes are meaty and dense.  Hash browns are airy and exquisite. 

The search is on.